MisterE said:
You are right, I was less in motion then last time. I was indeed focused a lot on trying to recreate the pose I did back then.
Yup. Try to recreate it but also move
MisterE said:
MILFandCookies said:
he's likely using a different focal length too (looks like 70-ish mm at a glance)
That is odd, because we've used the exact same camera (canon eos RP) and lens (50mm 1.8) as last time. The only difference is that the original photo is post processed and cropped (4:5) for Tinder. The other photos are not.
This makes a lot of sense. I could get all geeky on you and explain it but it'll be hard over text. When you crop an image, you're making it the equivalent of a more telephoto lens... said in different words, a certain part of the center section of a 50mm photo is equivalent to an 85mm photo.
It won't be as high quality as using that actual lens, but optically (the amount of distortion, flatness, etc.) it'll be equivalent.
Since you cropped in a bit on a 50mm photo, it would be equivalent to a more telephoto lens (70mm-ish by my estimation.)
MisterE said:
Also you are referring to the person in the original as "he" which got me confused a bit more. "He" is me from a month ago.
You even provided some feedback, but I understand if you already forgot.
I'm such an ass - my bad on that. Been through a lot this past month. I was wondering why you looked so much like the guy in the first photo
MisterE said:
This time I made sure that the room was a bit more lit, because I got a lot of noise last time on my photo. I was planning to reduce the lighting in post to recreate the feeling of the first shoot. Maybe you have some tips for shooting in a setting where the room is not so lit but where you still keep the noise to a minimum? Maybe I can accomplish this by using a studio lamp or an octabox?
You can't change lighting in post. Well there are ways to fake it, but they require a lot of artistry and are waaay to time intensive (think CGI, digital artistry) or are not quite good enough to pass as real (AI tools.)
You can change contrast, highlights/shadows (to an extent before it looks over-edited,) the general amount of light or darkness (exposure) but actually changing what kind of lights are on in the room is either extremely time intensive, or won't quite pass as real.
You can learn a lot about lighting and find ways to increase the amount of light in the room without changing how it looks on the subject. That takes a lot of skill, and frankly is not a skill I've invested in (my lighting knowledge is basic, since I take most of photos in public with a portable LED panel the size of an iPhone 15 Pro Max)
There is a solution for you though, and that is using AI denoise tools. They are great at denoising images without taking away the detail.
Lightroom has a new AI Denoise feature, as does Topaz Labs. I've used both, and they're both fucking great. If you use lightroom, make sure to use the AI Denoise feature, not the normal denoise feature. The latter will take away all the texture and detail and make everything way too "soft."
Also, try not to raise the ISO above 1600 on the EOS RP. That's what's making the noise. You can... maybe up to 2500 if you really really need to, (and then make sure you use the AI Denoise afterwards,) but keep 1600 as your upper limit in your mind, and adjust the shutter speed (1/160 maximum) and the aperture (1.8 or lower if you upgrade your lens at some point) to let more light in.
I see from the metadata you're using Aperture Priority mode... learn to shoot in Manual. That way you'll have more control in low light... your camera is probably making the ISO decisions for you, and it's going way too high - or it's making the shutter speed way too long and you're getting blurry photos. If you're in Manual mode you have control over all of this, and it's not as difficult as it seems.
Hope that helps.
